Surfing!
Hey there!
So I went surfing for the first time yesterday :-) I can't really say that I'm very good at it yet, but it was so much fun! A couple of the local girls (who I think go surfing pretty much every day) came and convinced me to come out with them. So I got outfitted in a borrowed wetsuit and the hostel's board and I was off! It definately looks a lot easier than it is! I spent most of my time out past the waves trying to keep my balancing and paddling like my life depended on it only to miss most of the waves :-P I think I only actually caught like 3 on my own. The first of which was fun, but I didn't even start to stand up. The next, the wave crashed over on me and I had my first fall. It's scary at first, but really not as bad as I thought it would be.
After a while of letting me struggle on my own, the girls took me under their wing and started helping me get the waves :-) They would hold on to my board and when there was a wave coming give me a little push. I still didn't manage to stand up, but one time I was almost up! I was just too slow and the wave ended before I really did anything. But yeah, I had a lot of fun. I'm hoping to go out again soon! I'd never worn a wetsuit before, but it makes such a big difference!
So I'm from now on a surfer (since I can't play soccer OR go skiing here). So far all I have to show for it is a few bruises but before you know it i'll be world champion :-P Haha, not really, but hopefully I can at least get standing up sometime in the near future.
That's all for now! Other than that, same as usual around here. I've been meeting a bunch of cool guests and today I start getting trained on reception :-)
Talk to you soon!
Kaila
posted by Kaila @ 1:44 PM
4 comments
4 Comments:
Hey Kaila
Post tropical storm Ophelia kind of fizzled out here on the weekend but it did mean there was a picture of a surfer out at Lawrencetown. I'll just stick your face on it, in my mind anyway.
No women's soccer? I'm surprised
Much Love
Dad
Haha, I'm definately no where near the skill level from the girl on blue crush... Nor are the waves here anything like the waves on Blue Crush. But you can keep thinking that if you want :-P
Hi Kaila. I was out at Lawenctown with the boy cousins the other week and they are also learning to surf. Wet suits are definately a necessity when you are hanging out in the Atlantic for so long. We have lots around here if you ever need one. At least no crocks in the Atlantic! By for now and good luck with yr apps. tom
Kaila, By my observation of the surfers at Bondi Beach in Australia it looks like a pretty aerobic sport, so definitely a great way to keep fit and seems like it would not be too bad re rotational forces on the knees. Main issue would be if you have to kneel on the board. Can you get kneepads in the wet suit? Oh and I did happen to notice the surfers all looked nice and fit (medical observation of course). Sounds like you are having fun! Love Mary
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